As the luxury market seems to have its worst crisis in 15 years, many designers are embracing minimalism as an antidote to overstuffed wardrobes. Not Daniel Roseberry.
Schiaparelli’s spring 2025 haute couture story began with antique ribbons that creative director Daniel Roseberry found in an antique shop. Once created in the booming French city of Lyon, the strips of fabric had been hidden away and forgotten for decades. “As I ran my hand among them last year, I realized what I wanted to do: Create something that feels new because it’s old,” the designer explained in the show notes. “I’m so tired of everyone constantly equating modernity with simplicity: Can’t the new also be extravagant? Has our fixation on what looks or feels modern become a limitation? Has it cost us our imagination?
The Schiaparelli designer kicked off Paris Couture Week with a celebration of opulence rooted in historic forms and turn-of-the-century embroidery techniques. Not since the 1950s have so many models been poured into corsets, which underpinned almost every look
“I’m over the idea that minimalism equals modernism, and so I found that my eye was hungry and thirsting for something that was a bit less streamlined, a bit more worked,” Roseberry said backstage.