It's time to raid your Grandma's Jewellery box
By Gena Aspinall-Martin
The brooch revival:
The brooch originates from the Bronze Age. Crafted using materials such as bronze and bone. Their initial purpose was functionality. Fastenings were not yet invented, and the brooch was used to pin garments in place. Over the centuries, brooches have evolved into fashionable adornments, highlighting their journey from practicality to symbols of regal power or marital status. Often gifted to women as a wedding gift or between partners as a symbol of adoration. Among the nobility, brooches featured jewels and were made of gold, becoming status symbols of prosperity. The brooch quickly became an accessory of the elite.
Dolce & Gabbana AW/26 Women's wear collection featuring brooch-like embellishments
By the 17th century, brooches were the favourites of the royals. In Russia, Catherine the Great often wore an emerald brooch to symbolise influence. Whereas, Marie Antoinette popularised diamond Brooches across France. The 19th century saw Queen Victoria further endorse brooches across Europe. By now, they were not only worn as symbols of status. They were also exchanged between lovers or worn when in mourning. Mourning brooches featured portraits of the deceased or locks of their hair. During the 20th century, fashion transformed dramatically each decade. Brooches were now used to show an individual's personality and worn as accessories to complement an outfit, rather than as symbols of status. The 1920s saw Art Deco jewellery overtly dazzle the flapper era. This admiration for brooches boomed in the 1980s, seen across major fashion publications with multiples pinned to blazers and jackets. Maximalism was on trend. Bold and theatrical brooches were placed onto hats and outerwear, paired with stacks of bracelets and large earrings.
Today, brooches are primarily recognised as an accessory of our grandmothers. However, in 2026, Brooches are predicted to make a triumphant return. Although fashion trends are circular, this brooch revival could in part be due to Generation Z’s admiration for thrifting, sustainability, and desire to create fashion nostalgia. There has been a rise in the purchase of vintage jewellery, as younger marketing cohorts seek to express individualism and build their personal brand image, pulling away from the copy-and-paste culture of modern-day fast fashion. In recent years, the rise in popularity of period dramas such as Bridgerton and Peaky Blinders may have left consumers wishing to emulate the accessories of their favourite characters. This is evident through recent marketing collaborations, such as Pat McGrath X Bridgerton in 2022 and Bridgerton's 2026 collaboration with Pandora. According to the Telegraph, U.K. Department store - John Lewis saw a 83% increase in flat cap sales between 2016 and 2017, evidence of how, over the past decade, period dramas have popularised and influenced fashion.
Decades have passed since brooches were considered a staple accessory, yet they have transcended media and luxury fashion. This desire for maximalist accessories is not limited to brooches; the rise of bag charms, Labubus, charm bracelets, sunglasses, and phone case straps reflects a desire for fashion to be fun again, pulling consumers away from the recent trend of minimalism in a way that feels almost rebellious.
From Left to right: Mugler SS/26, Isabel Marrant AW/25 Chanel Pre-Fall/26, Dolce and Gabbana AW/26, Bulmarine AW/25, Wales Boner SS/26 – (Images from Tagwalk).
Brooches have also taken to the runway across luxury fashion houses, from Chanel’s AW/26 runway, which showcased a modern take on the brooch and was hosted in a NYC subway, to Dolce & Gabbana’s most recent Men’s collection for AW/26. In which every suit featured a traditional brooch on the lapel. For 2026, over accessorising and embracing fashion as chaos will be the norm. Brooches have been seen on the runway pinned to dresses, jackets and suits. Carolina Herrera featured brooches across the middle of a dress; whereas, Chanel featured them at the top of a skirt slit and on shoulder straps. Therefore, brooches are predicted to be seen styled for the modern day, worn anywhere on clothing from skirts and suits to puffer coats. Brooches are also being used in media and film. Jacqueline Durran has taken a whimsical and theatrical approach to “period costuming” for Emerald Fennell’s 2026 adaptation of Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights, featuring brooches used for heavy embellishment on Margot Robbie’s dresses. Although the full costume line-up is yet to be revealed, it is interesting to ponder ways the brooch will translate within their costume department.
Chanel Pre-Fall 2026
Overall, the question remains, will brooches become mainstream or remain exclusive to luxury houses and film screens?